Monday, October 24, 2016

2nd Superior Hiking Trail Backpack Trip - October Colors - Cascade River to Lutsen.

After having such a positive experience with my birthday trip, I decided I wanted to get one more backpack trip in before the weather got really cold.  Once again, I was trying to plan my backpack trip while out of town for work.  This time I was in London, Ontario instead of Greenville, South Carolina.

Poplar River East campsite at dusk.


I had joined the Superior Hiking Trail Association  (SHTA) and had their guidebook and maps to work with.  I was looking for a section of the trail that could be done 3 days / 2 nights, with some nice higher elevation views and river gorges - so there would be some height for seeing fall color.  I knew I would get home late Thursday evening / Friday morning.  I wanted to have Friday evening home with my daughter, then take off Saturday morning.  Looking at the shuttle schedule, I decided I would leave early enough to make it to a long term parking spot where I could leave the truck and then have the shuttle take me to my starting point.  Then I wouldn't need to time my exit from the trail to catch the shuttle, I just had to time my drive to the North Shore.

Finally settled on Lutsen as the place to leave the truck, then catch the east bound shuttle to Cascade River park.  That would give me a distance of 17 miles to cover in 3 days - actually closer to 2 days since I would start at Cascade around noon Saturday and end Monday at Lutsen also around noon.

Two maps cover this hike:

http://shta.org/trail-section/lutsen-to-grand-marais/

http://shta.org/trail-section/lutsen-to-grand-marais/

After the last trip, I decided to cut down on weight a little by carrying less water.  I chose the Platypus gravity filter system.  Years ago I used a pump filter - but the gravity bag seemed like an easy way to go, and it would be pretty light.  I have two 1- litre bottles and the bladder from my little swiss army hydration pack.  That's still 3 litres = 6.25 lbs.

Temps were forecast to be in the 60's and sunny during the day.  Decided to use a medium weight base layer, a vest, a long sleeve fleece,  and rain shell for outside layer. I brought 2 pairs of gloves and a wool hat as well - knowing it would be cold at night.

I used to do the counterbalanced bear bagging routine - it was amusing for people to watch.  But in the areas around Yosemite they require a bear canister, so I have one, and have been using that.  Adds some weight, but straps on top of the pack and makes a nice stool to sit on.

Weight dropped from 50 lbs to 42 lbs - still more than I want but workable.



Strapped on the back and the bottom are my 30 year old Thermarest pad and REI Qualofill sleeping bag.  These days I can get warmer and lighter and that might be a really good idea.

The plan was to leave early enough on Saturday morning to get to Lutsen in time to catch the 10:38 shuttle.  Here's a link to the shuttle schedule for those who aren't familiar:

http://superiorhikingshuttle.com/shuttle-schedule/

To make sure I could catch the shuttle at Lutsen Ski Hill at 10:38, I left home at 5:30 AM.

Got there, left the truck in the parking lot, and saw someone else with a large backpack who it turns out was also looking to catch the shuttle. Heather was also planning to take the shuttle to Cascade River and hike back.


The view from Lutsen parking lot gave me hope that there would be great color for this trip.

When the shuttle arrived there were two more people who were also going to Cascade River - a couple from Sweden.  Who knew this trail was an international draw?  (Well, probably a lot of people, just not me.)

We got to the wayside by Cascade River, and checked maps, redistributed our packs, and then each of us started on our way.

It turns out Cascade River has waterfalls.

Cascade Falls:





And, "The Cascades"


The route west involved climbing Lookout Mountain, then heading along the ridgeline.  There was the usual nervousness while I looked for the turnoff, but the trail was really well marked, and I found it with no problem.  The climb had it's steep parts and a couple of switchbacks.  Since it was in the park there were many day hikers, including families.

Some views from the top of Lookout Mountain.




I bumped into the Swedish couple who were backpacking together.  At some point they got in front of me and I never caught up again.

Nice colors along the trail.



Here is the bridge over Indian Creek.


Lots of lookouts on the north side of the trail and they are on top of little cliffs.


Trail went along a road, and I got to see this magnificent tree.


A little more walking and I reached the Spruce Creek Campsite.  Below is Spruce Creek.



Cold water felt great on my feet.



This is what an SHT latrine looks like - 200 feet from the campsite.



 Here is the fire pit and seating, with Spruce Creek off to the right.  This is the second of two fire pits and seating areas at this multi-group campsite. My mini-mo is on the bench, in the background you can see my Platypus water filter hanging on a tree.


Set up my tent near a little stump I used to help hold up the tent vestibule and provided a place to lean the backpack.



Shortly after I set up camp a large group of 8 people came in with a dog and took over the other parts of the site.  I climbed up on top of a little rock to kind of feel a little more solitude.  Here's my campsite from this vantage.



Below is a section of Spruce Creek where I sat on a rock in the middle drinking my morning coffee. That was after listening to the rushing water all night long.  Best white noise machine ever.


I waited for the group to leave - they were planning to go all the way to Lutsen that day, while I had a day and a half to go that far.  I think it was about 12 miles for them.

Once I packed up and got going, I made it through some serious mud (on top of a hill, who would of thought?) I got to a little amphitheater (probably part of Cathedral of the Pines) that overlooked Caribou Lake.  The colors were lovely, the sun was out, I ate a little lunch and took a nap.






And the mud on my boot.  I use the "wet foot" philosophy:  wear open mesh boots that breathe well, and Smart Wool socks, and let the boots dry.  I assume that eventually waterproof boots will get wet and because they are sealed they will take forever to dry.  It worked out OK for this trip, with the occasional boot mud bath.



The trail wound through a lovely wooded area with yellow leaves on the birches.



And ended up along the north shore of Lovely Lake Agnes.


Note the beaver house to the left of the little peninsula.





A closer look at a beaver house.


And of course, a beaver dam.  My they have been busy as....


Lake Agnes had a couple of places to camp - one was really pretty right near the shore.  But I wanted to make it a little further - to the Poplar river that day, so my last half day of hiking would be really easy.  So I left the lake and went on a little further.

Another lovely walk that mixed long range views


With canopied wooded trails.  And mushrooms!




Finally made it to the Poplar River Campsite.  I covered about 8 miles that day, and probably could have gone a couple more - it was about 3 PM when I stopped.


Took a minute to find the latrine - it was on the other side of the trail from the campsite.  Makes a nice place to "go" while walking along the trail.


The Poplar River is moving slowly here - compared with the rapids downstream that I could hear from this site.  Lots of little minnows in the river at this spot.





Put the tent right near the river (expecting it to be dry all night).


Here is the fire pit and benches.  Someone with a saw had left a few logs.  I gathered lots of smaller dry twigs to start the fire later.

In the middle of the picture is my bear canister - a BearVault model.  I used it to hold my food and the garbage bag, and my toothbrush.  I put it away from the river and away from the tent.  During the night I heard something - maybe a racoon? - tapping on the plastic during the night.


Ok, got to try out the "selfie" feature on my camera.


As the sun went down, I had a chance to take this picture of the trees reflected in the quiet river.


And I started a fire that burned really well all night.  The stars were beautiful, but the temperature dropped rapidly and I had trouble sleeping I was so cold.




That's why it was so cold - note the frost on the tent rain fly.

The next morning - I had only about 4 miles left to go, easy, so I had plenty of time to use the sun to dry off the rain fly before packing up.  I stood in the little spots where the sun started to filter through the trees to warm up.  I started to think it might be a good idea to have wood covered with plastic ready to go to light a fire in the morning.

Lovely vistas of the Poplar River valley on the trek back to Lutsen.  I passed lots of day hikers who came from Lutsen.






Nice red leaves


Starting to pick up views of Lake Superior again.



And finally, I made it back to Lutsen.  A lovely trip, probably could have done it faster, but no need and enjoyed the pace and the views.



Lessons learned:

Shuttle strategy worked!
Platypus gravity filter was much lighter than bringing extra water, and worked well.
Need a warmer sleeping bag or sleep system.
Didn't need it this trip, but need to come up with a strategy for handling rain comfortably.